The 2004 Taurasi Naturalis Historia flows from the glass with generous wild cherries, smoke, ash, new leather, cured meats and licorice. The Naturalis Historia beautifully reconciles a contemporary expression of fruit supported by French oak with plenty of varietal character. The deep, round finish is particularly satisfying. This is the most modern of Mastroberardino’s Taurasis, and in 2004 it is truly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Mastroberardino is one of the historic names in Campanian oenology. In recent years the estate has come on strong with a number of superb wines that fully live up to the estate’s reputation. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Naturalis Historia is a benchmark wine for Campania—and all of southern Italy—with spectacularly clean mineral tones on the heels of berry fruit, plums, leather and spice. The wine’s approach is vertical and immediate but it also evolves slowly in the glass thanks to an ever-changing bouquet.——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 93