Mastroberardino’s 2006 Taurasi Naturalis Historia presents the darker, more brooding side of Aglianico. Huge tannins frame a core of black fruit, tar, smoke, licorice and incense. If Taurasi is indeed the Barolo of the south – a parallel that often exists – then the Naturalis Historia is very much on the Serralunga side of things. French oak shapes the wine to a degree, but the smaller barrels are very nicely balanced. Deep and sensual, the 2006 boasts impeccable balance from start to finish. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Plush for an Aglianico, with layers of fleshy plum and black cherry woven with tobacco, wild herbs, hot stone and olive. Well-structured, this needs a year or two for the tannins to resolve. Best from 2015 through 2025. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 750 cases made, 56 cases imported.??–NW??Region: Italy / South / Taurasi Select to Add