The 2005 Taurasi Naturalis Historia, the estate's more modern interpretation of Taurasi, is made from vineyards in Mirabella Eclano. Eighteeen months in French oak barrels has given the wine much of its shape and dimension, but without sacrificing varietal expression. It is a beautiful wine that is much improved over previous vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Mastroberardino is one of Italy's most historic properties. My vertical tasting of the estate's Taurasi (published in Issue 190), with vintages back to 1928, was a revelation. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Packaged in a beautifully unique glass bottle, this collector’s wine from southern Italy offers balance, intensity and cleanly etched aromas of black fruit, resin, cola, rum cake, dried violets and tobacco. The finish is elegant, polished and lingers long on the palate thanks to the drying tannins. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 92