Has any Bordeaux chateau realized a more wholesale stylistic revolution in so short a time than Troplong Mondot? Since Aymeric de Gironde arrived at the estate in late 2017, the ultra powerful "shock and awe" style of the 2000s is out, and a new refinement is in. Of course, the deep clays that define the core vineyards around the chateau itself are never likely to produce light or ephemeral wines, but de Gironde has astutely understood that (to develop an analogy), when driving down hill, one can ease off on the accelerator. The 2019 Troplong Mondot is a ringing endorsement of the new direction, wafting from the glass with complex aromas of wild berries, violets, coniferous forest floor, licorice, raw cocoa and subtle spices, followed by a full-bodied, velvety and layered palate that's seamless and perfumed, its enveloping core of succulent fruit framed by rich, powdery tannins and lively acids. Harmonious and penetrating, I never thought I'd taste a wine like this from Troplong Mondot.

2019年卓龍夢(mèng)特酒莊紅葡萄酒由85%的梅洛、13%的赤霞珠和2%的品麗珠混釀而成，采收期從9月10日持續(xù)到25日。在酒精度接近15%的情況下，這款酒的pH值為3.55，這簡(jiǎn)直令人難以置信！我在品鑒的過程中匆忙停下，記錄下這點(diǎn)，我猜想其酒精度在14.3%到14.5%之間。這是一款充滿力量感的葡萄酒，酒液顏色為紫黑色，散發(fā)著美妙的鮮花、紫羅蘭蜜餞、紅玫瑰和薰衣草的香氣，此外還有濃郁的李子蜜餞、野藍(lán)莓、黑色覆盆子、灌木叢、土壤、野生菌菇、碎巖石和肉桂粉的氣息撲面而來。酒體適中，像緊致的螺旋彈簧，黑色水果與紅色水果的風(fēng)味交織，展現(xiàn)出美妙的層次感，泥土的氣息與鮮花的芬芳完美融合，架構(gòu)精致，風(fēng)格清新，余味悠長(zhǎng)且略帶礦物質(zhì)氣息。這款酒的風(fēng)格與幾年前卓龍夢(mèng)特酒莊的老式風(fēng)格相去甚遠(yuǎn)，給人留下深刻的印象。這款酒采用法國(guó)橡木桶、部分大橡木桶和少部分陶罐陳年，其中新橡木桶的比例為60%。

這款酒單寧豐富，結(jié)構(gòu)緊湊，顯然是一款陳年潛力可觀的佳釀。在混釀中，赤霞珠帶來了結(jié)構(gòu)感和美妙的黑莓風(fēng)味，而成熟的梅洛占據(jù)主導(dǎo)地位，成酒口感豐富，各要素顯得十分平衡。