Originally created for the Reagan/Gorbachev summit meetings, the 2004 Russian Cuvee is a blend of 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay aged 3 years on its yeast. Like all of these sparklers, it reveals lots of persistent effervescence, tiny, well-formed bubbles, a light straw color, and a distinctive perfume of orange rind and honeyed citrus. In the mouth, it cuts a fuller-bodied mouthfeel than its siblings, and displays more intensity. Even though it is made from the same blend as the Classic Vintage Brut, the Russian Cuvee is much longer, richer, and more intense. This deep wine shows off the impressive character of this house. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

This is one of the sweetest of the winery’s crop of bubblies, made as usual with a notable touch of honey, although it’s still fundamentally dry. Shows luscious flavors of raspberry, lime, tart apple and brioche, leading to a long, richly spicy finish.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 89