The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino, a translucent red, opens with cherries, raspberries, flowers and minerals, all of which come together on a mid-weight, sturdy frame. Today the wine is rather unyielding and is one of the few 2005s that seems to need further time in bottle. Still, the fruit retains quite a bit of freshness, which makes me think it will develop nicely in bottle. Typical of the vintage, the wine tapers off a bit on the finish, but not enough to detract from its considerable charm. There is just enough fruit and inner perfume to stand up to the wine’s austere, focused personality. This is a very representative Brunello from the northern part of the appellation. In 2005 Capanna did not produce a Riserva, opting instead to use those grapes for the straight Brunello, a decision that has paid off big-time. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. These two Brunellos from Capanna are superb. This small, family-run estate is located in the famed Montosoli district, to the north of the town of Montalcino. Importers: Masciarelli Wine Company, Weymouth, MA; tel. (781) 335-6620; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060

Ripe sliced plum and green leaf aromas lead to a medium body, with slightly chewy tannins and a medium finish. Lacks a center palate. Best from 2011 through 2014. 1,515 cases made. -JS

This is a very likeable and approachable Brunello with soft but generous tones of cherry fruit, exotic spice, pipe tobacco and cedar wood. In fact, those exotic wood notes transfer to the mouth where the wine is smooth and enduring with a sweet cherry finale.