All three of the Albert Mann Gewurztraminers reviewed in this issue are flamboyant, intensely fragrant, exotic wines that manage to offer a cunning synthesis of power and delicacy. The 1994 Gewurztraminer (a blend from the Altenbourg, Furstentum, and Hengst Vineyards) achieved 13% alcohol naturally. With great balance, this is an authoritative, powerful example of Gewurztraminer that has maintained a degree of restraint and elegance. The huge nose of rose petals, pepper, and spice is followed by a full-bodied, concentrated, dry wine with zesty acidity. The wine possesses 6.5 grams per liter of residual sugar. Long, honeyed, rich, and refreshing, this is a Gewurztraminer to drink over the next 10-12 years. As in other recent vintages, Albert Mann's 1994s are exceptionally brilliant. Proprietors Maurice and Jacky Barthelme own 42 acres of vines. Like other producers who claimed 1994 was a great vintage, they refused to panic during the heavy rains of late September, waiting for the vineyard to dry out before they harvested. They were rewarded with a glorious, dry, sunny, Indian-summer-like October. The Domaine Albert Mann, along with such other leading Alsatian estates as Domaine Weinbach, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, and Domaine Schoffit, claim that the wines' richness, combined with the good acidity, makes 1994 their finest vintage since 1971, even eclipsing the profound 1976s, 1989s, and 1990s. While I remain skeptical of those accolades, the wines reviewed in this issue tasted extremely unevolved and backward, yet were loaded with potential. It was easy to taste and feel the extraordinary concentration, backed up by vibrant acidity, making this undoubtedly a potentially long-lived year for the region's finest wines.Albert Mann is unquestionably one of the most underrated estates in France.Imported by Weygandt-Metzler, Box 56, Unionville, PA 19375. The telephone number is (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 932-0279. Questions regarding availability in specific states and cities should be directed to Peter Weygandt.