The impressive and opulent 1999 Marques de Borba Tinto Reserva exhibits sweet fruit as well as a fat, thick, juicy mid-palate, great concentration, and integration of tannin and wood. This outstanding effort is full-bodied and rich, with copious aromas of cassis fruit, blackberries, truffles, minerals, and smoke. Impressively-endowed, with sweet tannin, low acidity, and a multi-layered texture, it should drink well during its first 15 years of life. Readers who have not yet tried some of the exciting wines emerging from Portugal need to search out this offering from Joao Portugal Ramos. This offering represents an excellent value.FRAN KYSELA, 130 Windy Hill Lane, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; fax (540) 722-9258

The 1999 RESERVA (MARQUES DE BORBA) is a library wine, but worth focusing on because it has aged so beautifully, a useful data point to have. It is friendly and elegant, open and expansive, and most importantly, completely fresh. Harmonious and beautifully balanced, it still has enough tannin on the finish to give the wine a little life. It was probably the best of the older Reservas I had in a vertical. It is beautiful now, and while it will hold a bit, there seems to be little point to holding it. Drink now-2012.Importer for Quinta da Vicosa, Vila Santa and Loios labels: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; Importers for other brands, including Marques de Borba: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel. (800) 667-0750.

This tasty, well-made red features a sweet, smoky oak-heavy nose and then a dense, rich palate of sweet cherries and ripe plums floating in vanilla. Smooth and stylish at all key points, it’s easy to drink and easy to like. A calling card for Portugal. ——M.S.(12/31/2001)—— 88