The 2007 RESERVA MARQUES DE BORBA is this year’s version of Ramos’ flagship wine. It seems like a winner, bright, beautifully structured, elegant and bursting with flavor, if a bit too oaky at the moment, a little too scented with vanilla. The light mid-palate gives it a certain ethereal air. It will be interesting to see where this fragrant wine goes in the cellar. It drank beautifully the next day. Note to bargain hunters: I would be remiss if I did not note that Ramos’ Vila Santa, at a fraction of the price, holds up pretty well, too. Drink now-2020. Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).