If in the 2007 and 2008 vintages, the Haut Densité bottling delivers more volume and plenitude, it's with the 2009 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité that a gap really begins to open up in tension and structure—even if, from this vintage on, the two cuvées actually resemble each other more closely in terms of pH and alcohol level. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, freshly baked bread and iodine, framed by an attractive touch of reduction, it's full-bodied, ample and layered, with terrific concentration, chalky grip and a long, saline finish. With the 2009 vintage, Lamy began to retain more solids in the must during vinification, and that shows in the form of a more reductive profile, along with enhanced texture and tension.