Lamy's 2014 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is one of the most tightly wound wines in this tasting, unwinding in the glass to reveal aromas of pear, citrus oil and crisp stone fruit mingled with hints of iodine, freshly baked bread and wet stones. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's taut and chalky, with huge levels of concentration, racy acids and an immensely long, pungently saline finish. It's a very impressive wine, but patience is still advised.