Dobles lias means double lees. Extended lees contact has given this Chard great creaminess in the mouth, a smooth impression that is heightened by malolatic fermentation. Beyond that, the wine is fully dry, balanced in alcohol, and lush in flavor. Pineapple custard and charred meringue take center stage, but there’s a complex cast of Key lime pie, peach preserves, butterscotch, cinnamon and vanilla. Compelling and authoritative.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 94