With repesct to older vintages, in October I tasted three of Mondavi's more renowned Cabernet Sauvignons. The 1971 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (the first vintage to carry a Reserve designation) includes a significant percentage of Cabernet Franc. This has always been one of the more compelling Reserve wines. It reached its peak in the late seventies, and continued to drink well for many years. At this tasting in October, I rated the wine 90 points, but I must say it had a 96 point bouquet. It seemed to be drying out every so slightly in the mouth. The wine still possesses an astonishing fragrance, reminiscent of a hypothetical cross between a top vintage of Cheval Blanc and a classic cassis-dominated California Cabernet. In the mouth, it never was a blockbuster, but a medium-bodied, graceful wine that relied more on its harmony than power to attract attention. The fruit is just beginning to dry out, and the tannin and acidity are becoming more noticeable. This wine, which drank beautifully for 25 years, is still hanging onto life. Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.

Firm and concentrated, with high-extract currant and spice flaovrs. A muscular wine that's sturdy and complex. Drink now to 1994.--Mondavi Cabernet vertical. -JL