A dense ruby/purple color is followed by a wine exhibiting notes of creme de cassis, subtle and unobtrusive oak, medium to full body, impeccable balance and everything synchronized into a lush, opulent wine that finished with 14.5% alcohol. It is not the most complex Mondavi Reserve, but it is a very satisfying, highbrow wine that offers plenty of pleasure both hedonistically and intellectually. It should drink well for another 15 years, and it may surprise me with more nuances and subtleties than it now suggests. During my career, two individuals who stood out for their vision, passion, uncompromising morals and contributions to my wine education are the late Jess Jackson and Robert Mondavi. I can-t taste any wine produced under their umbrella wineries without a silent acknowledgment of what they meant to me. For all the profound admiration and respect I have for both men, it does not enter into my evaluations of their wines. I want to make that clear. Mondavi-s 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve was showing better than I remember it early on. Of course, it-s a classic, but what would you expect? Tel. (707) 967-6364

The rich and intense 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve has a saturated ruby/purple color and is sweet and dark, with a complex nose of creme de cassis, blackberry, subtle oak, and smoke. It is medium to full-bodied and seems richer, fuller, and more intense than the 2004, but again reminds me of a St.-Julien made in Napa.Tel. (707) 226-1395 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 251-4386

Notable aromas of herb, mint and rosemary turn firm and tannic on the palate, with rich, loamy dried currant, mineral and pebble flavors that are concentrated. Finishes on an austere note. Needs time. Best from 2008 through 2013. 7,000 cases made. -JL

Shows all the hallmarks of great Mondavi Reserve. Ageworthy and complex, with enormously ripe, rich fruit, classic chocolate, cassis plus cream and spice from new oak. So smoothly voluptuous now, it goes down like velvet, but the tannin-acid balance will easily hold this wine through 2015. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 92