The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve may be no better than the Oakville, but it is made in a slightly different style. The color is opaque purple, and the wine reveals more vanillin, a touch of mint, and plenty of black currant fruit in its moderately intense aromatics. Some of the vintage's dry tannin (from this year's stressed vineyard conditions) is present in the wine's finish. A more stylish, restrained, less exuberant example than the 1996 Oakville, it is an outstanding offering that should be consumed between 2002-2025.Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007

The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve may be no better than the Oakville, but it is made in a slightly different style. The color is opaque purple, and the wine reveals more vanillin, a touch of mint, and plenty of black currant fruit in its moderately intense aromatics. Some of the vintage's dry tannin (from this year's stressed vineyard conditions) is present in the wine's finish. A more stylish, restrained, less exuberant example than the 1996 Oakville, it is an outstanding offering that should be consumed between 2002-2025. Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007

Herb, currant and tea scents turn supple and elegant on the palate, picking up a complex note of tar and mineral. Gains depth and richness on the finish and still has firm tannins. Easily the best of three bottles.--1996 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2011. -JL