Between 1978 and 2007, this 1998 is the greatest Vieux Telegraphe that was produced. It has taken a good decade for this wine to shed its tannins and come out of a dormant, closed period. It has finally emerged, and notes of iodine, seaweed, black currants, incense, and sweet cherries as well as hot rocks jump from the glass of this full-bodied, powerful wine. It possesses considerable elegance and purity, along with loads of raspberries and incense, in a round, juicy, rich style that is just emerging from the closet. The wine is still youthful and a pre-adolescent in terms of its ultimate evolution. Approachable now, it will continue to evolve for another 15-20 years. Bravo!

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape is a broad, concentrated, seductive offering with abundant quantities of black cherry jam intermixed with licorice, smoke, and spice box. Ripe, medium to full-bodied, and plush, it is best consumed over the next 7-9 years. This wine represents 20% of Vieux-Telegraphe's total production. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Very complex, this is a major-league red with a tight but deep nose of black fruits, spice, and tar. The deep yet closed fruit on the palate is accented by pronounced clove, tarragon and anise notes. Beautifully structured, with a velvety texture and fine fruit-to-acid balance. This impressive bottling finishes long, with dark fruit and cocoa notes. It virtually demands aging for three to five years——M.M.(12/31/2001)—— 94