The 2003 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape has turned out well. Deep ruby with some purple nuances, this wine is medium to full-bodied and reveals notes of licorice, pepper, Asian spices, black cherry, raspberry, and currant, as well as a relatively big, sweet palate impression with moderate tannin in the finish. It is accessible, but will benefit from 2-3 years of aging. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importers: Vieux Telegraphe and Pigoulet: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524; Chateau La Roquette: Diageo Chateau Estate Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

This classic wine from the Brunier family is certainly one of the best known names in Chateau-neuf-du-Pape. It is also a very fine wine, full of perfumed fruit, dark, dry but rich tannins, flavors of oak, pepper and herbs, made in quite a traditional style. The name “La Crau” refers to the plateau on which the vines are planted. Imported by Kermit Lynch.——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 92