More classic in style, with aromas and flavors of black licorice, new leather, toasted spice and mulled cherries and blackberries, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape (70% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, 6% Cinsault and 4% other varieties, aged 12 months in foudre and barrel) is medium-bodied, clean and nicely balanced on the palate. Aging gracefully, and in a good spot, I’d recommend drinking it over the coming couple of years. Owners Frederic and Daniel Coulon made solid wines (particularly their whites) in 2004. Looking at the reds, their top cuvee (Boisrenard) still shows hints of its oak elevage (which I don’t think will ever completely disappear), yet stays pure, balanced and very drinkable. Both it and the traditional cuvee are medium-bodied, elegant efforts to drink over the coming couple of years.

The 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape has a dark plum/ruby color, a nice spicy nose of cassis fruit intermixed with hints of white chocolate, Provencal herbs, and espresso. Softer and more superficial than some of the other vintages, it is seductive and best drunk over the next 4-6 years. Domaine de Beaurenard is a consistent estate that has been making top-notch wines for as long as I have been writing about wine, which is now 28+ years. In fact, the 1929 tasted a year ago still had some life left in it. In any event, the Coulon family, who have been major estate bottlers not only in Chateauneuf du Pape but also in Rasteau, have an almost unmatched record of quality and were one of the first to begin making a more progressive style of Chateauneuf du Pape – purer, cleaner, with more fruit, without sacrificing Provencal typicity.Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463