From a stony Weil monopole situated just north of the Grafenberg and recently re-recognized by as an official single vineyard, the 2006 Kiedricher Turmberg Riesling trocken is more overly floral, nutty, spicy, and chalky than the other dry wines in this year’s collection. Notes of buddleia waft throughout, and there is a combination of succulence and pith that strikes a more transparent and refreshing pose than the preceding wines as well. Half of this was vinified in tank, which may well have promoted its freshness and elegance. There is no trace of heat from its 12.7% alcohol, and given its exemplary balance and expressiveness, I can imagine following this superb Riesling in bottle for at least 6-8 years. Wilhelm Weil relates that his team (twice the size he would have fielded only a few years ago) harvested for seven weeks without pause, 14-18 hours a day in order to capture the best possible quality from a year that set records in the Rheingau for total heat accumulation, but then of course threw inopportune rain in the vintner’s way. “The critical thing was to retain a reflection of our terroir, but to make use of the opportunity afforded by such precocious ripeness,” he observes. As in so many recent vintages, the Weil estate also benefited from some of the stoniest soils and highest, breeziest exposures in the Rheingau. Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; 800-596-9463