The 2002 Brut LD is meant to be one of Iron Horse’s top offerings. It is a 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged a whopping seven years on the yeast in the bottle. Production is one of the most limited at 550 cases. A complex nose of brioche, honeysuckle, nectarines, white peaches, and orange blossoms is followed by a rich, full-bodied, stunning sparkler revealing tiny bubbles, and lots of texture, richness, and length. A tour de force in domestic sparkling wine, it should drink nicely for another 3-4 years. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

Made from equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine was aged on the lees for more than four years, which gives it a fabulous creamy, yeasty complexity. There are tantalizing flavors of limes, orange zest, roasted hazelnuts, minerals and smoke. Absolutely wonderful now, and should hold and develop in the bottle through 2014, at least. Only 563 cases produced.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 96