The vintage was kind to early ripeners, like the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that constitute this bubbly. It’s enormous in strawberry, raspberry, orange and lime flavors, with an exotic spiciness, but despite the richness it’s fundamentally dry. Treads the line between soft approachability and acidic ageability, offering the choice of pleasurable drinking now, or cellaring through the decade to see how it develops.——S.H.(12/15/2011)—— 93