Schlossgut Diel’s 2011 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese displays a smoky, spicy pungent side of botrytis, accenting mirabelle preserves and apple jelly. With creaminess and buoyancy akin to that exhibited by the corresponding Pittermannchen, this however misses by a wide measure – for now, at least – that sibling’s complexity, poise, and seductive allure. That said, we have here an impressively persistent if rather blatantly sweet finish, and over the next 20 or more years in bottle this Auslese may well show itself capable of greatness. Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300