Kistler's 1990 Chardonnays represent the pinnacle of what this grape is capable of achieving in California. For pure decadent richness, as well as a formidable combination of power and elegance, check out Kistler's fantastic 1990 Chardonnay-Kistler Estate. A superb nose of smoky bacon fat, buttery fruit, and toast is dazzling. There is exceptional concentration, extraordinary richness and presence on the palate, and a long, intense, full-bodied finish. About as profound as Chardonnay gets in the New World, it could easily be mistaken for a top Batard or Chevalier-Montrachet from France. The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well.