A blockbuster effort, the 2005 Chardonnay Hawk Hill Vineyard (310 cases) exhibits aromas of lemon oil, orange marmalade, white peaches, brioche, and smoky hazelnuts. It is a full-bodied, rich Chardonnay with superb acidity, purity, and length. It will be interesting to see how long it lasts. I suspect it has 5-8 years of longevity ... at the minimum. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This hugely ripe Chardonnay is just a little too big for absolute balance. Any more powerful, and it would be over the line. As it is, it flirts with it, with gobs of jammy apricots, yellow pears, citrine and Meyer lemondrop, as well as barrel influences ranging from creamy lees to buttered toast, roasted hazelnuts and smoky honey. The alcohol is over 15%.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 89