Always a bit herbaceous, this year the underlying leanness shows in rather green fruit, veering into bell pepper, dill, mint and oregano. All the oak in France and America can’t really make the fruit any riper. But the oak does add smoky, creamy, vanilla notes and sweetness, too. There is some pretty fruit—notably blackberry—in the finish, but still, this is a wine of structure. It’s fantastically well made, a classy quaff, and it will pair well with rich red meats, especially beef.——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 90