This is always a drily tannic wine in its youth, but it’s also one of the most ambitious Cabs produced from Dry Creek Valley, and is worth attention. With a drop of Petit Verdot, it’s young and jammy, explosive in black currant and chocolate flavors, with plenty of smoky oak. Although the tannins are big, they’re completely ripe and sweet. Four-plus years of age have softened them. Drink this Cabernet Sauvignon now with very upscale foods, and it should hold and soften for a decade.——S.H.(4/1/2008)—— 93