The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Setzberg continues the low-toned, rich, bitter-sweet cast that typifies Hirtzberger Smaragd from 2006. Peach, peach kernel and coffee segue into an ore-like, hard-to-pin-down sense of minerality. With airing, the mysteriously mineral dimension of this wine becomes stronger, while floral and citrus zest notes emerge. There is satisfying primary juiciness in the finish here, but with fruit pit and citrus zest notes lending almost bitter concentration, and the mineral aspect also impressively persistent. Enjoy this over the next 5-7 years.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700