Notes of smoke, crisp orchard fruit, white flowers and petrol introduce the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées, a medium to full-bodied, ample and impressively concentrated wine, girdled by tangy acids and ample reserves of chalky dry extract. Long and penetrating, it's planted at 20,000 vines per hectare, but Lamy considers the vines too young to merit the Haute Densité moniker for the moment.