The Prager 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten features a Chenin-like citrus oils, quince, and stone interplay, a broth-like suffusion of mineral character, and finishes with added notes of mint and coffee. As with the Zwerithaler, relatively low acidity lends itself to a low-toned cast, yet this finishes very clear, with some of the dynamic pure fruit and mineral interplay such as one has come to expect from this great site. It should be worth following for 7-9 years. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

A glorious, ripe, spicy wine that keeps its origins clear with its tight edge of stone and steel, which brings the acidity under the sweet pear and yellow berry fruits. With its rich, round finale, this is a firm but opulent wine. Imported by Vin Divino.——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 94