With its expressive nose and deep layers of smoke, earthiness, tar and plummy dark fruit, the deeply-colored 2001 Brunello di Montalcino exudes notable concentration on the palate in a backward, potent style. It is full-bodied, firmly structured Brunello that will benefit from a few years of bottle age after which it will offer enjoyable drinking for another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

A delicious, crafted Brunello that celebrates Montalcino tradition. One panelist was especially fond of its cola berry, forest underbrush, plum, charcoal, granite and vanilla notes. Medium structure, but very well distributed throughout the palate with rich tannins and a long berry finish. Imported by Vias Imports. ——W.E.(4/1/2006)—— 91