A St.-Emilion look-alike, the 2000 Olmo’s Reward is a blend of nearly equal parts Cabernet Franc and Merlot as well as dollops of Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. As importer John Larchet said, it is “Bordeaux from the bush.” An herbaceous, cedary nose reveals hints of spice, fruitcake, red and black currants, and a distinctive earthiness. This medium-bodied, rich, impressive effort possesses both elegance and complexity. Moreover, it is fairly priced. Consume it over the next 4-8+ years. Imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CA; tel. (800) 485-5753 for John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection.

Named for Dr. Harold Olmo, a UC Davis viticulturalist, this red is 42% Cabernet Franc, with Merlot, Cab Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot making up the balance. With such a makeup, its core of very taut red plum shouldn’t come as a surprise. Also has top-to-bottom herbal accents and a tangy-oak finish—all told, a good, but rather tough, unfamiliar style of wine for most.——D.T.(9/1/2004)—— 86