The 2020 Olmo's Reward is, as usual, led by Cabernet Franc, and it has grit, grunt and density in spades. This is a powerful wine, with loads of black berry fruit, tobacco leaf and resin, sandalwood and black tea, with graphite tannins and a splay of exotic spice through the finish. It is firm, dark and tight. $85 AUD. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Each year, this wine jumps in quality and purity. Whether this is due to a refinement in winemaking, a coming of age for the vines or a combination of both is yet to be determined, but suffice to say, it is lovely. A Cabernet Franc-dominated blend, the wine is routinely brooding, dark, spicy, concentrated and structured—it lingers in the mouth and through the finish. As for the 2019 Olmo's Reward, the tannins are the highlight—they are fine yet firm and just a little bit chewy.

The 2014 Olmo's Reward is an unspecified blend of Cabernet Franc (the majority), Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. It kicks off with aromas of dried flowers and herbs, cherries and blueberries, then adds hints of dark chocolate, mocha and baking spices on the palate. It's medium-bodied and has silky tannins that take on a savory, tea-like note on the finish. It should drink well for 10-12 years.

Medium garnet-purple colored, the 2012 Olmo's Reward, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and a little Petit Verdot, has aromas of red currants, cranberries and blackberries with nuances of cedar, cloves and beef drippings. Medium-bodied and delicately constructed on the palate, firm, finely grained tannins and racy backbone, finishing long and savory.

A blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec, the 2011 Olmo's Reward is a medium-garnet color with a hint of purple in the rim and is scented of kirsch, mulberries and raspberry preserves, plus hints of cinnamon stick, pencil shavings and bay leaf. Full-bodied and with a sold backbone of firm, grainy tannins and bright acidity, the generous, multi-layered fruit flesh goes on and on at the finish. Drink it now to 2024+. Imported by Quintessential Wines, Napa, CA; www.quintessentialwines.com