The Antinori estate in Montalcino is comprised of vineyards purchased from Castello di Casigliano in 1995. The house, commendably, has chosen to emphasize the specific territorial character of the wine, without any excesses of new oak, a policy well reflected in the 1998 Brunello di Montalcino. A dark and ample ruby/garnet, its pure and focused nose, very varietal, expresses plums, tobacco, Mediterranean herbs, and just a kiss of oak. Elegant and solid in flavor with sustained and supple tannins, much warmth, intensity, and drive, it is balanced, layered, and fresh with considerable personality. Drink: 2005-2015. I mentioned to Renzo Cotarella, director and head winemaker of Antinori, that I considered this wine superior to the 1997. His response? “Sssh.” Importer: Remy Amerique, New York, NY; tel. (800) 358-6002

Extremely well-crafted, as usual. Fabulous aromas of strawberries and cream that soon turn to minerals and spices. Full-bodied, with very silky tannins and a long, long finish. This has plenty in reserve and needs time to develop. Best after 2004. 12,000 cases made.