The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Pian delle Vigne presents a plump, fruit-forward style with bold cherry notes that are laced with balsam herb, licorice, sweet almond, dried ginger and tobacco leaf. The wine’s acidity appears on the palate but the overall ripeness of the fruit suggests this will be an early-maturing wine. Drink: 2015-2021. Marchesi Antinori’s Pian delle Vigne estate has had its share of ups and downs and somehow its “down by the railroad tracks” association has stuck on some distant metaphoric level despite its best marketing efforts to the contrary. The estate is located on the lower plains of the Camigliano area near an old rail station on the outer perimeter of the Brunello appellation. Because its owners are from oh-so-far-away Florence, Pian delle Vigne has been saddled with an “outsiders” status within the tightly-knit Montalcino growers’ community. Truth is, estates like Pian delle Vigne (representing important outside financial investments in vineyards, distribution and promotions) have done much to elevate Brunello to the pinnacle of the world winemaking elite. Importer: Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, www.ste-michelle.com

A 2009 Brunello with solid core of fruit that shows mineral, mushroom and dark berry character. Full to medium body, fine tannins and a savory finish. Drink or hold.