The dark ruby-colored 1995 Barolo Cicala possesses a muted but promising nose of spice box, cedar, tobacco, and cherry fruit. It exhibits good ripeness, medium body, high tannin, and noticeable yet subtle oak. This very good 1995 can be drunk now as well as over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Classy aromas of wild berries, smoke and dried herbs are appealing. Medium to full in body, with a clean, rather crisp frame, it has a enough concentration of ripe and rich fruit to suggest cellaring for extra complexity. The mineral, soillike taste of terroir is impressive on the long finish. Best after 2002.