The 1997 Barolo Cicala (from a parcel of vines further up the slope from Colonnello) offers a distinctive bouquet of soy, fresh sardines, earth, cedar, and tar. In the mouth, leather notes are added to this mix. The tannin dominates the wine's back end, giving it a compressed character. Aldo Conterno says this wine always takes longer to come around than his other crus, and frequently possesses a mineral/steely framework. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Dark ruby red. Very powerful nose, with raisin and spice character. Full-bodied, with lots of dried fruit and toasty oak character. Cedary and meaty as well. Needs some time still.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2009. 800 cases made. -JS