My personal favorite in the Conterno line has always been the Barolo from the Cicala vineyard, though it is always the most tannic in its youth, and the latest to come around. The 1999 Barolo Vigna Cicala is no exception. Ruby/garnet, potent on the nose with varietal Nebbiolo scents of roses, wild cherries, tar, and minerals, it is long and intense on the palate, full-textured and with a notable tannic punch which adds density and length to the flow. Still backward and with a smoky, mineral, and licorice close, this is a wine which will repay patience. Drink between 2006 and 2025. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Refined and aromatic. Very pretty dried flowers on the nose, with hints of plum and other ripe red fruit. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a ripe fruit finish. Best after 2006. 800 cases made.