The 2006 Pinot Gris is light straw-colored. It offers an attractive bouquet of melon, apple, and poached pear leading to a supple-textured wine with excellent ripeness and plenty of white fruit flavors. This nicely balanced, fairly-priced wine should be consumed over the next 1-2 years. Ponzi Vineyards began in 1974 making them one of Oregon’s pioneers. Dick and Nancy Ponzi, the founders, remain very much involved although winemaking duties were turned over to daughter Luisa in 1993. In addition to remaining a reference point for Oregon Pinot Noir, the winery fashions excellent wines from Italian varietals including Arneis and Dolcetto in honor of their heritage.Not yet released. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

This has lovely complexity, suggesting everything from sweet honeysuckle to ripe fig to citrusy lime and of course the classic varietal pear fruit. It couldn’t be any fresher, and beautifully balanced as well, with plenty of acid to clean the palate. A delicious wine made for near-term enjoyment.——P.G.(11/15/2007)—— 88