The star of the show is the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Pergole Vece. The 2009 vintage shows an exceptional quality of fruit and the appassimento went off without a hitch, turning fresh berry aromas into compelling tones of candied cherry, creme de cassis, sweet almond butter, cola, cured meat and tangy steak sauce. The balsam intensity of the wine – ginger, hummus, eucalyptus and dried rosemary – gives enormous lift to the bouquet. It has the structure, acidity and balanced fleshiness for long cellar-aging. Three years ago, Le Salette switched to sustainable, chemical-free farming. Drink 2017-2030. Franco Scamperle’s Amarone Pergole Vece is one of the best Valpolicella wines on the market today. Only made in the best vintages from old vines, it sees a longer appassimento and oak regime to increase the wine’s distinctive intensity. Pergole Vece ranks high on my list of personal favorites, but unfortunately I have seen the wine’s retail price creep up suddenly the past few years. Importer: Vias Imports, www.viaswine.com