From 40-year-old vines, the 2005 Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is among those few 2005s to push ripeness of fruit (not just meatiness) into a roasted range. Blackberry and licorice aromas with a hint of caramel lead to a palate of enormous breadth and weight, with superb integration of tannins, and finishing like a storm front. Yet, impressive as this is, it’s far from the most impressive wine here today, and certainly not the most refined. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

From 40-year-old vines, the 2005 Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is among those few 2005s to push ripeness of fruit (not just meatiness) into a roasted range. Blackberry and licorice aromas with a hint of caramel lead to a palate of enormous breadth and weight, with superb integration of tannins, and finishing like a storm front. Yet, impressive as this is, it’s far from the most impressive wine here today, and certainly not the most refined.