Made with a bend of fruit from Arborina (in La Morra), Cannubi (in Barolo) and Badarina and Ceretta (in Serralunga d'Alba), Silvia Altare calls her 2019 Barolo Unoperuno a "super mega blend of classic single-vineyard sites." The berries are hand selected in the most excruciating manner to avoid all stems, leaves, ugly berries, bugs and so forth. Indeed, "unoperuno" means "one by one" in Italian, and that gives you an idea of the exacting work required to make this very limited-production wine (with about 1,200 bottles released annually in the fall). "Everyone is moving toward stem inclusion," Silvia tells me: "We are moving in the opposite direction." These results are softly elegant with ripe tannins and lots of dark fruit and black cherry at the back. There are mild mineral tones and a hint of earth or rust.

A crunchy and bright Barolo with orange, flower, and crab apple aromas and flavors. Medium body. Very crunchy and fresh. Fine and polished tannins. Bright and yummy already. But give this time to develop in the bottle. This is hand de-stemmed. Better after 2025.

A beam of cherry highlights this supple red, along with iron and wet hay flavors, plus a touch of eucalyptus. The texture is impressive, until the tannins flex their muscles. Firm yet open, with a lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 75 cases made, 23 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add