I was about rung out of superlatives by this time in our tasting session, but Hirtzberger had by no means finished his performance. A trio of nobly sweet wines awaited. Some nobly botrytized fruit could also be salvaged from Singerriedel this year, and forms the major part of 500 liters of 2005 Riesling Beerenauslese which I tasted from tank. Typical apricot jam aromas of this site are accented by brown spices and a poof of smoke. The palate is creamy and rich, yet elegant, refined, and elevated by efficacious, vintage-typical ripe acidity. Subtle honey, brown spices, and apricot preserve combine with a remarkable amount of fresh apricot fruit and fruit skin character for a sensational super-concentrate. Roasted richness, pure honeyed ennoblement, and a fresh fruit matrix that promotes elegance, lift, and fluidity: this has it all. “The secret of a really good Beerenauslese,” claims Hirtzberger – in a remark reminiscent of the Mosel’s Willi Schaefer – “is to retain juiciness and to be truly selective.” Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700