One of the absolute highlight of this tasting, the 1962 Dom Pérignon Rosé, from the original release, halts all conversation at the table. The explosive energy and intensity are those of a cold, late-ripening year that helped preserve a remarkable level of intensity. A host of sage, mint, copper, orange zest and exotic floral notes flesh out, but it is the wine’s textural resonance that truly stands out. Although fully mature, the 1962 appears to be holding at a plateau of glory, where it should stay for at least another handful of years given its depth. Readers lucky enough to own well-stored bottles are going to experience what is simply one of the greatest Champagnes ever made. Last year, at Hautvillers, I tasted the 1962 Blanc ?nothèque. The 1962 Rosé is every bit its equal, and then some. Disgorged 1970.