Bollinger’s 2002 Brut Vieilles Vignes Francaises isn’t really Champagne, nor is it a wine. Rather it is an extraordinary and frankly addicting concoction all its own. Endowed with the most refined mousse imaginable and endless layers of fruit, the 2002 VVF captivates both the hedonistic and intellectual senses to the fullest. Waves of subtle red fruit, smoke, mint and incense appear to be virtually endless, but at the same time, it is the wine’s textural richness that stands out the most. With time in the glass the 2002 just gets better and better. Readers fortunate to have the discretionary income needed to purchase the 2002 VVF should not hesitate. It is a once in a lifetime treat for most mortals! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020.

An open-knit style, with spice, toast and nut aromas and flavors, accented by peach. This is firm, with a long aftertaste of candied berry, citrus and roasted nut. Drink now through 2020. 5 cases imported. -BS

The 2000 Brut Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Francaises emerges from the glass with an elegant, refined mousse that is captivating. Sweet, perfumed and layered, the 2000 VVF shows off superb grace and a long, vibrant finish. This is an especially elegant and understated version of this Champagne. My preference is to drink VVF before age 20. Bollinger’s VVF is one of Champagne’s rarest and most iconic wines. Just a few thousand bottles are made each year from Pinot Noir grafted onto pre-phylloxera rootstocks in Ay and Bouzy. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a beautiful set of new releases from Bollinger, one of Champagne’s reference-point houses. The wines are aged in neutral oak barrels, while all of the reserve wines are aged in magnums, a painstaking procedure that must be seen to be truly appreciated. This year I didn’t taste the entry-level NV Special Cuvee or Brut Rose, but the Special Cuvee in particular is typically one of my favorite Champagnes in the $75 price range.

The 1999 Vielles Vignes Francaises is simply stunning. Layers of perfumed red raspberries, flowers and spices flow onto the palate with breathtaking beauty. The mousse is exceptionally fine, as is everything about this wine. Although the wine possesses superb density and richness, it remains light on the palate and supremely graceful. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2008.