The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is another brilliant rendition of one of contemporary Burgundy's most fascinating wines. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of lime zest, white flowers, wet stones, oyster shell and subtle reduction, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a multidimensional core of fruit that's framed by racy acids and huge reserves of chalky dry extract. Incisive, penetrating and tightly wound, anyone lucky enough to acquire a bottle or two should plan on a minimum of a decade's patience.

Whether the 2017 or the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is the finer wine will be a fascinating question to debate over the decades to come, but the latter continues to perform brilliantly, mingling aromas of green pineapple, pear and citrus oil with notions of freshly baked bread, toasted nuts and youthful reduction in a compelling bouquet. Full-bodied, satiny and concentrated, it's rich and layered, with a racy spine of acidity, chalky structure and a long, intensely mineral finish. This is a stunning white Burgundy that takes Saint-Aubin to places that no one would have imagined possible a mere decade ago. It's a monumental achievement from Olivier Lamy, one of contemporary Burgundy's greatest vignerons.

An unusually and impressively muscular, concentrated wine in a vintage often defined by high yields, Lamy's 2018 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité exhibits aromas of pear, green pineapple, freshly baked bread, citrus oil, oyster shell and smoke. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's a rich, layered wine with lively acids and chalky grip on the finish. Today, it remains an infant and will richly reward bottle age.

One of the high points of this tasting, Lamy's 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is showing even better than it did when I tasted it a year ago, unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp orchard fruit, citrus oil, freshly baked bread, clear honey, stone fruit and a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's layered and concentrated, with incredible depth and intensity, exhibiting a tightly wound core that's built around racy acids and chalky structuring extract. Seamless and complete, this is a brilliant white Burgundy that fully realizes the potential of the site and the vintage.

This heavily frost-impacted vintage was decidedly challenging, yet one can count on Olivier Lamy to produce outstanding wine, and his 2016 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is beginning to show very well indeed. Unwinding in the glass with notions of pear, clear honey, confit citrus, freshly baked bread and beeswax, it's full-bodied, ample and concentrated, with a satiny attack that segues into a taut, chiseled palate, framed by racy acids and concluding with a long, penetrating finish.