The 2009 RESERVA “MARQUES DE BORBA,” a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in new French oak barriques, is most clearly differentiated from its siblings reviewed this issue by, at the moment, sweet oaky notes. That’s not a good thing, most will say, but this bottling always shows its oak when young. It should make it work and integrate it well as time goes on. A bit differently styled than the more elegant ’08 that I loved, it nonetheless has a statement to make in its own sexier style. With the 2008, it represents a very fine back-to-back duo from Ramos, both showing some finesse, precision and power. As I’ve come to expect, this is plainly the wine in the lineup that has the best chance to age gracefully. It does, unlike its siblings, need a little more time in the cellar to pull itself together and show all that it has to offer. Whether it is worth the considerable price uptick—that’s up to you. Drink 2013-2024. Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Winebow, Inc; Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado)

A delicious, smooth wine, all rounded fruit and sweetness to go with the more determined tannins that lie beneath. With great concentration, the wine has a feeling of power while preserving a core of juicy acidity and sweet red plum juice.——R.V.(11/1/2011)—— 92

The 2008 RESERVA “MARQUES DE BORBA,” a blend of Trincadeira, Aragones, Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 12 months in French oak, is Ramos’ prestige bottling. While many may find it hard to justify its price point, which has increased quite a bit over the last few years, it certainly is a very fine performer this year, providing the best structure of the winery’s lineup, without question, and a finesse that nothing else the winery makes has. This is what I love about this bottling—its ability to deliver persistent flavor, while seeming ethereal and elegant. So, too, here—it is remarkably graceful in the mid-palate, a wine that promises to be an absolute pleasure to drink when it settles down. A bit tinged with vanilla at the moment, it should have no problem integrating its oak with time. It is generally crisp and fresh, and becomes more so with aeration. It has some hard tannins on the finish and develops a bit of a hard edge with air. It has very fine intensity of fruit flavor, too, and perhaps just a touch of funk that seems to initially get stronger and then largely blow off. Overall, it is a lovely bottling that covers all the bases and seems likely to age well, but it will require a few years in the cellar to become more civilized. Drink 2012-2024. This lineup is often a good source for values in Portugal. This year’s releases are no different, and perhaps better than most in that regard. There are a lot of beautifully constructed wines here that are charming and inexpensive (ignoring the Reserva “MARQUES DE BORBA,” which has spiked up dramatically in recent years to levels many might find unrealistic). The Vila Santa Reserva Tinto and the Marques de Borba regular Tinto are certainly best buys, but there are good cases to make for the monovarietals and the Loios wines as well.Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado).

An impressive, serious wine that shows great ripe fruits, concentrated tannins and a solid edge of wood aging. It is finely structured, its richness not taking away from its balance, although it certainly is no wimp. Enjoy with hearty meals.——R.V.(2/1/2011)—— 91

The 2007 RESERVA MARQUES DE BORBA is this year’s version of Ramos’ flagship wine. It seems like a winner, bright, beautifully structured, elegant and bursting with flavor, if a bit too oaky at the moment, a little too scented with vanilla. The light mid-palate gives it a certain ethereal air. It will be interesting to see where this fragrant wine goes in the cellar. It drank beautifully the next day. Note to bargain hunters: I would be remiss if I did not note that Ramos’ Vila Santa, at a fraction of the price, holds up pretty well, too. Drink now-2020. Importers: for Loios, Vila Santa and Quinta da Vicosa brands: Winebow, Inc., Montvale, N.J.; tel: (201) 445-0620; for Marques de Borba brand and Red Leg: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel: (800) 669-0750 (in New England, New Jersey, N.Y.) and HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511 (for Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington State and Colorado); for Conde de Vimioso (Falua) brand: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843 (Washington, Portland and California) and Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044 (New England, New Jersey and New York).