Candied apricots and exotic fruits emanate from a glass of the 1997 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. This hugely powerful, intense wine is full-bodied, dense, explosive, and fresh. While it lacks the delicate nuances of the previous offering, it regales the palate with untold quantities of yellow fruits and minerals. It is velvety-textured, complex, and its extensive finish offers loads of apricot and chalk flavors. Drink it between 2002 and 2015+. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

The healthy, light straw-colored 1997 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl has an intensely smoky, mineral, pear, and herb-scented nose. Medium-bodied and silky-textured, this wine is rich and ample. Layers of poached pears, minerals, and stones are found in its youthful, undeveloped personality. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2012.