The 1998 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl does not reveal any influence of botrytis in its smoky apricot-scented aromatics. Minerals, cherries, raspberries, and other assorted red fruits dominate this medium-to-full-bodied wine's personality. It is pure, intricate, and wonderfully rich. Its extravagant character is satin-textured, luxurious, and elegant. Projected maturity: 2004-2012+. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.