Long-time readers may know how spectacular Jaboulet's Chateauneufs were in the fifties and sixties. The 1957, 1961, and 1967 were prototypical expressions of the full-bodied, unctuous style of Chateauneuf du Pape that could be drunk young, yet was capable of lasting and improving for 15-20 years. For whatever reason, Jaboulet lightened the style of Chateauneuf in the seventies and eighties. Starting with the 1988 vintage, there has clearly been a return to the richer, more massive style that brought Jaboulet so much fame. The 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape, a 65% Grenache/35% Syrah blend, with 14% natural alcohol, reveals an impressive dark ruby/purple color, a big, spicy, earthy, jammy nose, deep, unctuous, full-bodied flavors, and a dense, long, moderately tannic finish. Unevolved, young, and backward, this wine needs 2-3 years of cellaring. I envision it drinking well through the first decade of the next century. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Co., New York, NY.

The 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape, a 65% Grenache/35% Syrah blend, with 14% natural alcohol, reveals an impressive dark ruby/purple color, a big, spicy, earthy, jammy nose, deep, unctuous, full-bodied flavors, and a dense, long, moderately tannic finish. Unevolved, young, and backward, this wine will benefit from some cellaring. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Last tasted 6/96.