One of the surprises in my tastings was Seghesio's 1994 Zinfandel Old Vines. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, and aged 15 months in American and French oak barrels, this is an ambitiously-styled, serious, formidably endowed Zinfandel with just the right amount of wood. A big, rich, jammy, black-cherry and raspberry-scented nose with a touch of spice is followed by a full-bodied wine with layers of flavor, and a smooth-as-silk, heady, lush finish. It should drink well for 5-6 years. This gorgeous Zinfandel is unquestionably a breakthrough in quality for Seghesio. It is an excellent value. Bravo! This is a noteworthy offering from a winery long associated with reasonably good, low-priced wines. NOTE: All the wines in this article were tasted in May, 1996. Tel. (707) 433-3579